Turtle Watching
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"Everyone ought to see a turtle nesting. It is an impressive thing to see, the pilgrimage of a sea creature back to the land its ancestors left a hundred million years ago. The nesting rites begin, for the watcher, at least, when the turtle strands in the surf. That part is hard to watch, those minutes when she comes up with the breakers and stays there for a while, rising with a wave then bumping back softly on the sand, making up her mind. She blinks and peers, turns her nose down and presses it onto the wave-washed bottom, then looks up and all around and blinks some more. She is clearly making a decision. What her criteria are, nobody knows …The turtle is wild and skittish when she first touches shore, and even the light of a match struck far up the beach may send her back to the sea." – Archie Carr
Prized for their shells, eggs and meat, turtles have been hunted by indigenous people in all of Latin America, but it wasn’t until the arrival of Europeans that the numbers begin "harvested" started to become dangerously high. Turtle soup became a delicacy in the late 1800s, and by the late 1950s were taking nearly every female green turtle arriving in Tortuguero was being taking for the export market.
Costa Rica’s combination of an enormous percentage of protected costal land, and its location as part of the narrowest portion of the Central American isthmus creates a nearly unrivaled number of nesting sites for five varieties of endangered and /or threatened sea turtles. In fact, Tortuguero National Park and Ostional -Nancite Beach in Santa Rosa National Park are two of the Western Hemisphere’s most important turtle hatcheries.
It’s impossible to overstate the importance of discretion when viewing turtles while they are laying eggs or hatching. Guides and volunteers are often on site to keep onlookers from disturbing the process, as it’s highly possible to disrupt the female enough that she’ll actually turn back to the sea before completing her task. The turtle that nest on Costa Rica’s shores range in size from the 40 kilo olive ridley to the mighty leatherback, that can reach lengths of 2.5 meters and weigh in at nearly 700 kilos. But hatchings of each species face the same threats after they bite through the rubbery surface of their eggs. Instinct drives them all toward the open sea, where as they cross the sand they run the gamut of dangers between sea gulls, crabs, stray dogs and unfortunately some times humans. The one out of every 5.000 that make it to deep waters and survives to adulthood will join the ranks that return to mate and nest off on Costa Rica’s protected waters repeating the amazing ritual to which they’re instinctively driven.
These gentle giants are also vulnerable to marine pollution. Leatherbacks may die after eating floating plastic bags, which they apparently mistake for jellyfish — their favorite food. All sea turtle eggs are considered delicacies, believed by many cultures to be aphrodisiacs. Marine pollution, incidental capture in shrimp nets and habitat destruction also threaten sea turtles.
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